Like most buses to Dali (大理) from Kunming the bus we were on was actually going to Xiàguān (下关,) also known as Dali New City, while where you will probably want to stay and spend most of your time is in Dali Old Town (古城, Gǔchéng). On the bus we met some nice Chinese youngsters from Guizhou province who were also visiting Dali and graciously invited us to share a cab with them to the old town. From that moment on they didn't leave our side, helping us get a room where they stayed (100 RMB), taking us out to dinner and drinks and being perfect hosts. Despite the language barrier (only one of them sort of spoke English) and age difference (they were about 10 years younger than us!) we had a great time with them and it was a nice welcome into China.
Even disregarding the friendly welcome we received, Dali makes for a good first stop in China to any first time tourists. Once a sort of a hippy-town, these days it is very popular among foreign and Chinese tourists alike. Maybe even to popular for some tastes, you may find yourself overwhelmed by the loads of Chinese tour groups who swamp the streets in peak season. Still, the old city has its charm. Its nice to walk along the main street that fills up with food stalls and stand selling crafts, clothes, souvenirs as well as fruits, vegetables and flowers. The surrounding nature will guarantee serenity, with the magical backdrop of Cangshan Mountains and the blue alpine lake of Erhai Hu.
Nearby is the beautiful Erhai Lake surrounded by Bai minority villages. you can rent bicycles or electric scooters and ride around the lake. Since it was raining on the day when we planned to visit the lake, we ended up hiring an electric tuk-tuk which was great fun and gave us shelter from the rain and wind. We received many amused stares riding this unusual vehicle around, including two especially giggly farmers who we picked up on the road and gave them a lift to their village. It cost 120 RMB on the main road near the east gate, and despite the fact that the battery surprisingly died on us when we were coming back and we (Daniel) had to push the last few hundred meters, it was a success!
We also visited the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple (121 RMB), located inside a large compound filled with beautiful temples and parks. Its a bit expensive (though most sites in China are) but we thought it was worth the visit.
We booked a bus to Lijiang (75 RMB, 2.5 hours) with one of the many agencies in town, it may be cheaper if you go into New Dali, but it is convenient to book in the old town and catch the bus from the main road just out of the old city.
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