Temples, Pagodas and One Golden Rock - A visit to Bago, Mt. Kyaiktiyo and Yangon, May 23-26 2015

Myanmar is a profoundly spiritual country where Theravada Buddhism is the main religion (about 80% of the population) and plays a tremendous role in everyday life. Many people in Myanmar also worship the Nats which are believed to be spirits of humans who died violent deaths (there are 37 great Nats). The belief in the Nat is incorporated into Buddhism and the two are often worshiped alongside each other.


I don't think there is another place in the world where you can see countless Buddhas, pagodas and temples scattered all over the country, and where the people's devout faith in Buddhism is felt so strongly. Although the vast majority of Myanmar is Buddhist, there are other religious minorities present, especially in Yangon, such as Christians (10%), Muslims (6-8%), Hindus (2%), and about 20 Jews.

Mt. Kyaiktiyo - "The Golden Rock"

We arrived to one of Myanmar's holiest places, the Golden Rock at Mt. Kyaiktiyo, after a 4-hour bus drive from Hpa-an (5300 kyat). We were dropped off at Kyaiktiyo town, where there is no reason to stay since it is far from Mt.Kyaiktiyo, and we continued with an unfriendly "taxi" (pick-up truck) driver (7,500 Kyat) to Kinpun, a small town located on the foothill of the mountain that serves as a sort of base camp for the many pilgrims and tourists who come to witness the Golden Rock. There are a few basic guesthouses in town and we settled in Pann Myo Thu Inn (20$ per night with air-con, including breakfast), nothing special but it seems to be the best option around (also one of the fastest wi-fi connections we've had in all of Myanmar!). After a nice dinner at Kaung San restaurant we called it a night, planning to head up the mountain early morning.

The next day we boarded one of the uncomfortable trucks that make the journey up the mountain to the Golden Rock (2500 Kyat one way, rain jackets sold on the truck- 1000 Kyats). Alternatively, you can join the pilgrims who supposedly walk for 4 hours up the mountain (it was raining heavily and we didn't see anybody attempting to do that). After about 40 minutes we finally reached the top, wet but happy, and continued by foot the last 200 meters or so, stopping to pay the 6,000 Kyat foreigner entrance fee. 

We were rather disappointed because the Rock and the whole mountain was enveloped in a heavy misty fog (hence the cloudy photos) and is probably more impressive when the weather is clear. After an hour of wandering around and stopping to eat some fried vegetables, we started our way down. We passed by the usual souvenir stalls and I was quite upset to see one stall proudly selling bear paws and tigers teeth. I can only wish for the people who buy these type of things a miserable and sad life.

On the truck

The fog cleared up.

a mini Golden Rock replica

a nice temple on the way to Bago

Bago

We took a 12:00 bus from Kinpun to Bago (5000 kyats, 2 hours) and arrived at San-Francisco Guesthouse, owned by two lovely sisters. Compared to its size Bago has a lot of interesting spiritual sites around the city that are easy to explore. It can also make for a nice day trip from Yangon, as it is only 2 hours away. The owner at San-Francisco arranged for us a 4-hour tour (on 2 motorbike taxis) through the city and she was also very helpful in advising when is the best time to visit each site in order to avoid paying unnecessary fees. 

Among the many Buddhas and pagodas we visited (it is a bit hard to keep track) was the imposing 55m long  (second largest in Myanmar) reclining Shwethalyaung Buddha, with murals depicting the interesting legend behind it, the striking Shwemawdaw Paya which is the highest pagoda in Myanmar, a peculiar Snake temple where a 100+ year old python snake is considered holy, the four 100 Ft sitting buddhas of Kyaik Pun Paya, and Kyah Kha Wain monastery home to 500+ monks and where the main attraction seems to be watching them line up for lunch at 11:00 am (and taking lots of pictures).

• Tip: there is a 10$ Bago archaeological zone ticket that you need to buy in order to access some of the sites, but if you come after 4 pm it will not be checked. You might still have to pay some camera charges (300 kyats).

the kitchen at Kyah Kha Wain monastery

Shwethalyaung Buddha

another giant reclining Buddha at Mya Tha Lyaung 

Yangon

After catching a minibus from Bago (1000 kyat, 2 hours) we were dropped off at the bus junction outside of Yangon and were disappointed yet again by a taxi driver that was asking for 15,000 kyat to take us downtown. Eventually a nice guy helped us to get on a local bus for only 600 kyat each. We arrived at Myin Myat Guesthouse (20$ per night with AC, shared bathroom and slow wifi) and after settling in we went out to eat and got our first taste of  the great street food that Yangon has to offer.

Next morning we visited Botataung Paya (5$ entrance fee) where we got lost in the zigzag maze inside and marvelled at the golden walls that surrounded us. We continued to Sula paya located in a roundabout on a busy street amidst heavy car traffic and modern buildings, and is the perfect example of how Myanmar is going forward but is still deeply connected to its Buddhist roots. After a long and hot walk on the streets of Yangon we rested a bit and cooled off at the modern Snow factory cafe that serves good coffee and creative desserts.

On the second day we decided just to walk around and explore the city (and eat a lot, apparently). Strolling along the vibrant markets and colorful streets we again delighted in the delicious food sold on street stalls everywhere and also grabbed some nice Indian food at New Delhi and Golden City restaurants. We wanted to visit the local Jewish synagogue but it was closed so we only had a look from the outside. We later walked over to what I call here "the bar street" on 19th street in Chinatown and had an afternoon drink in Kosan, enjoying good food and ridiculously low-priced mojitos (800 kyat).

We were fortunate to spend our last day in Yangon with Win Thein and Keke, two local friends of Maya's friend Noa, who were such welcoming and generous hosts to us. We had a lovely breakfast at a cafe overlooking Inya Lake and had an interesting conversation about life in Myanmar and in general. We squeezed in a quick visit to Yangon's most famous pagoda, the remarkable Shwdagon Paya (8$ entrance fee) where an energetic and animated guide showed us around (5$) and us a crash course on the history of the stupa, Buddhism and the Burmese calendar, and we were happy to learn that we both share the same Burmese zodiac animal, the rat, which supposedly means we are clever, witty, and intelligent! After checking out of the hotel we took a shuttle (1000 kyat per person, 1 hour) to Yangon bus station where we boarded a comfortable night bus (15,000 Kyat, 9 hours) to Bagan.

golden selfie at Botataung Paya

Sula Paya

vegetable market in Yangon

wood used for making thanka, the golden paste 

Burmese women apply to their face

Hindu temple

Shwedagon Paya

our guide Uncle Kyin

with Win Thein and Keke