ginger lemon honeymoon: Babas and Boats in Holy Varanasi

In Varanasi formerly known as Benares we met our good friend from home Ronen who also happens to be a talented photographer (he photographed our wedding!) currently on a photographic journey in India, driving across the nation in his own funky van! Do yourself a favor and check out his truly wonderful photos here.

We had a great time together exploring this crazy, intense and spiritual city- joining the crowds for evening Puja in the main (Dashashwamedh) Ghat of the holy (yet dirty) Ganges river or waking up early for the quieter (and more special in my opinion) morning ceremony in the most southern Assi Ghat, jumping on a boat to watch the sunrise making one of the numerous boatmen (who relentlessly target tourist when walking on the ghats with their original pickup line: boat? boat? boat?) a happy man, roaming the maze of narrow alleyways of the old city that at times feels like one big obstacle course where you desperately try to dodge piles of cow dung, cows, sewage, motorbikes, pushy vendors and just crowds of people while hoping not ti get lost , strolling along some of the 87 (!) of Varansai's ghats including the famous burning ghat (Manikarnika) and the Raja ghat where laundry is done, taking pictures (and trying to learn a bit from Ronen) of the many holy babas or sadhus hanging around, some freindlier than others (many will ask for bakshish for being photographed), sampling street food including a variation of the Rajasthani Kachuri, sweating unreasonable amounts and cooling off at the friendly Mona Lisa Cafe (average food, reliable wi-fi), sipping a refreshing pineapple lassi in Bana Lassi or treating ourselves to a descent pizza and apple pie at Vaatika in Assi Ghat (beware of the bug attack there at night).

Also in Assi Ghat which is generally more calm and quiet than the hectic main ghat area we had nice breakfast at Aum Cafe (Daniel was excited to find a vegan omelette on the menu) and Open Hands (really good cappucino and delicious muffins), both a little on the pricey side but worth it. On the other hand, for the true budgeteers there is a Nepali-owned place near the main ghat that offers free (yes FREE) thali for tourists every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (of course we were there on the wrong day and missed it), look for a place with a long line of people in front or ask around.

I also did some yoga at the Yoga Training Center near the main ghat which I remembered fondly from my previous visit to Varanasi, it was a different teacher but still it was a good and challenging (and very sweaty) class (300 Rs for almost 2 hours).

We stayed at Luxmi Guesthouse in the alleys of the main Ghat which is pretty nice (600 Rs) after escaping the dirt-cheap (literally) Aniket guesthouse in Assi Ghat (250 Rs including some cockroaches and a mouse, though strangely missing a sink).

After helping Ronen pimp his ride by adding swanky red curtains to his blue painted van we embarked on what turned out to be a long and sweaty yet memorable journey from Varanasi to Kolkata (the heat didn't stop me from sleeping most of the 17-hour ride in the back seat).